Nuno Felting: A Comprehensive Guide to Creating Wearable Art

When you run your hands over a piece of nuno felted fabric, the textures are captivating—a delicate dance between smooth silk and the soft embrace of natural fibers. It’s more than just cloth; it’s a masterful blend of artistry, traditional techniques, and sustainable materials. At Enchanted Fibers, we use this innovative felting method to transform our alpaca fibers into stunning wearable art pieces, infusing each creation with creativity and craftsmanship.

But what exactly is nuno felting? How did it originate, and why is it so beloved among fiber artists? In this guide, we’ll take you through the art, history, materials, and techniques behind nuno felting, and how Enchanted Fibers brings its own unique touch to this traditional craft.

Nuno felting is a versatile technique that involves bonding loose fibers, like alpaca, wool, or silk, to a lightweight fabric base such as silk or chiffon.

The term "nuno" comes from the Japanese word for "cloth," aptly capturing the essence of this craft: the creation of fabric that marries fiber with a sheer, open-weave textile.

Unlike traditional felting, which results in a thick, dense material, nuno felting results in lightweight, breathable, and richly textured fabrics perfect for wearable art.

The nuno felting process begins by laying fibers of wool or our luxurious Chimera Ranch alpaca onto a delicate fabric.

Using hot, soapy water and applying friction, the fibers are encouraged to migrate through the fabric weave, creating a bond that is both strong and flexible.

This technique allows for intricate patterns and textures, making it ideal for crafting scarves, wraps, shawls, and even our signature **half sweaters**—a unique, lightweight piece designed to keep your neck and shoulders warm.

While felting has ancient roots, the technique of nuno felting is relatively modern. It was developed in the 1990s by Australian textile artist Polly Stirling, who sought to create a lighter, more delicate alternative to traditional felt.

Inspired by Japanese textiles, Stirling experimented with combining fine fabrics like silk with wool fibers, discovering that by using heat, water, and friction, these elements could be seamlessly fused together.

The result was a fabric that retained the warmth and texture of felt but was far more lightweight and breathable. Today, nuno felting has captured the imagination of fiber artists around the world, who use it to create everything from luxurious clothing to artistic wall hangings and accessories.

At Enchanted Fibers, we honor this tradition while pushing the boundaries by blending our alpaca fiber with other luxurious materials like yak, silk, and camel to craft truly unique textiles.

To create beautiful and durable nuno felted items, selecting the right materials is essential:

Choosing the Right Fabrics

The fabric you choose as a base will significantly impact the final texture of your piece. Lightweight fabrics like silk gauze, silk chiffon, or even open-weave cotton are popular choices because they allow the fibers to penetrate easily, creating a strong bond. At Enchanted Fibers, we often work with margilan silk for its sheer quality and softness, which beautifully complements our naturally soft alpaca fibers.

Selecting Wool and Other Fibers

The choice of fiber will determine the texture, softness, and drape of your finished piece. While merino wool is often favored due to its fine texture, we prefer using alpaca fiber for its softness, hypoallergenic properties, and luxurious feel. For added depth and texture, we blend it with yak, camel, or silk fibers. Additionally, dyed mohair and viscose can be incorporated to introduce vibrant colors and dynamic surface designs.

Essential Felting Tools

To get started with nuno felting, you’ll need a few essential tools:

Soap: Used to lubricate the fibers during the felting process. Each feltmaker has their own opinion which soap is the best. It may be olive oil, liquid detergent, goats milk. The truth is that any soap will work, but some soaps may work better in different felting projects.

Screens: most feltmakers will use some form of protective screen for the purpose of holding fibers in place during the initial phases of felting. Examples would include Tulle Netting, Polyester Curtain, mosquito netting or window netting. It is recommended that your screen be larger that your felting project, but is not a necessity.

Bamboo mats or bubble wrap These provide the friction needed to help fibers bond to the fabric.

Spray bottles or ball sprayers for wetting the fibers with soapy water. Given we are working with water, it is also recommended to have some old towels and or sponges available to pick up exess water.

A pool noodle or rolling pin to roll and compress the fabric, helping the fibers merge with the base material

Specialty Tools: If you are interested in blending your own fibers to create a customized wool you may want to have a carder available. An example of a customized wool would be a blend of sheep wool, alpaca and silk. If you are wanting to make hats or shoes/boots, you will want to consider forms that are focused on those items.

By carefully choosing the right tools and materials, you can create beautiful nuno felted fabrics with intricate designs that are as functional as they are artistic.

Creating nuno felted fabrics requires patience and a bit of elbow grease, but the results are well worth it. Here’s a step-by-step breakdown of our process:

1. Preparing the Base Fabric

Start by cutting your chosen fabric to the desired size. Lay it out on a flat surface, ensuring it’s smooth and free from wrinkles. This will serve as the foundation for your design.

2. Laying Out the Fibers

Carefully arrange layers of alpaca roving, silk, or other fibers onto the fabric. You can experiment with colors, textures, and weights to create intricate patterns. By adjusting the thickness and direction of the fibers, you can achieve various visual effects. At Enchanted Fibers, we love blending natural and dyed fibers for a rich, painterly effect.

3. Wetting and Rolling

Once the fibers are arranged, spray them with hot, soapy water until they’re thoroughly wet. Place a piece of bubble wrap over the layers, then roll everything tightly around a pool noodle or dowel. Begin rolling the bundle back and forth, applying gentle pressure. This process helps the fibers penetrate the fabric, bonding them together.

4. Felting and Fulling

After rolling for about 5-10 minutes, check the fibers to see if they’ve begun to bond. If they’re holding well, move on to fulling, which involves more vigorous agitation to shrink and tighten the material. At this stage, you can throw the fabric onto a towel or even place it in a washing machine for a brief cycle with cold water and vinegar to set the fibers.

5. Rinsing and Drying

Rinse the finished piece in cold water to remove any soap residue. Gently squeeze out excess water and lay it flat to dry. Once dried, the fabric can be further embellished with needle felting, embroidery, or surface designs to add another layer of artistry.

The possibilities with nuno felting are endless, allowing for innovation and creativity in every piece:

Exploring Texture and Color

Nuno felting offers limitless potential for texture. By incorporating various fibers like dyed mohair, camel, or viscose, you can create depth and dimension. At Enchanted Fibers, we enjoy sandwiching colorful embellishments, like hand-spun art yarns, between layers of silk to create a vibrant, multi-dimensional effect. For our half sweaters, we use a blend of alpaca and silk fibers, sandwiched between margilan silk, to create a soft, lightweight wrap that’s both warm and elegant.

Innovative Nuno Felting Projects

Beyond scarves and shawls, nuno felting can be used to craft coats, vests, and even lightweight jackets. For a unique statement piece, we experiment with ruching techniques and incorporate natural elements like leaves or botanicals to create a textured, organic look. Our wearable art line is perfect for those looking to add an artistic, handmade touch to their wardrobe.

Nuno felted items are delicate and require gentle care to preserve their beauty:

Washing: Hand wash in cold water with a mild detergent. Avoid using hot water or machine washing, as this may cause unwanted shrinking or felting.

Drying: Gently press out excess water and lay the item flat to dry. Never hang nuno felted pieces, as they may stretch out of shape.

Storage: Store folded in a cool, dry place. Avoid using plastic bags for storage, as they can trap moisture and cause mildew.

With proper care, your nuno felted creations will remain beautiful for years to come, reflecting the craftsmanship and care that went into making them.

Nuno felting is more than just a craft—it’s an art form that combines natural fibers with delicate fabrics to create pieces that are both functional and beautiful. At Enchanted Fibers, we are dedicated to crafting sustainable, wearable art that celebrates the beauty of alpaca fiber from Chimera Ranch.

We invite you to explore our collection online or visit our farm store to experience the tactile beauty of nuno felted pieces in person.